Boucheron Boucheron And in liquid perfumes, a note of incense adds a richness, intensity and a touch of the exotic. Used to impart fullness into fragrances. Log in Register. Theres nothing light and airy about guaiac wood, thats for sure. Thierry Mugler Angel Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt. Another note of warning: in its purest commercial form, citral can paralyse the nose for several hours, making it impossible to smell anything at all. Create a free Dossier Club account and start Paul Smith London Paul Smith Women Oud essential oil is produced from Aquilaria trees which mostly grow in the rainforests of Southeast Asia. (Gloves and perfumery are inextricably linked, which you can read about in our Perfume History section, here.) (And around the time of the 16th Century, not a few men could apparently be found ripping out rosemary bushes to show that they, not their wives, were boss.). Finished with unexpected touches of vanilla, blueberry, coconut, geranium and patchouli, Fenty Eau de Parfum expresses itself uniquely on each wearer for a on With its tart/sweetness, meanwhile, the blackcurrant berry is a popular ingredient in todays fruity-florals. Violet flowers smell soft, powdery and romantic, a little like iris, and are can be played up to create a very feminine fragrance. Annick Goutal le Mimosa Anne Marie Orsini (also known as Anna Maria de la Tremoille, and originally French), fell in love with the scent of neroli, which fragranced the air in spring. They give perfumes a gentle, deep dark, sensuality. Smell water (or rather ozonic notes) in: Gardeners everywhere probably wish that every dandelion on the planet could be weeded out and imprisoned in a perfume bottle. Oakmoss is among perfumers most beloved ingredients: an essential element of fragrances within the chypre family (which you can read more about here), in partnership with bergamot: it anchors volatile notes. Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade Shaped like a diamond grenade, Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb is a glittering explosion of fresh and sweet sensations and an endlessly sought-after scent. Thats because it takes almost forever to produce oudh, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree. Herms Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan It all began in Ancient Egypt, where incense was first created using precious gums and resins from trees, imported from the Arabian coast and Somalia. Its the roots of this perennial plant a flowering member of the valerian family which are used in perfumery, as well as in natural medicine and in aromatherapy, to soothe stress and anxiety. Its generally used as a fixative or stabiliser in many perfumes helping to make sure that a favourite scent smells consistent, and keeping it true for many years in the bottle. KenzoKenzo Amour Florale Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli Fragonard Citron Aldehydes may be found in natural materials rose, citronella, cinnamon bark and orange rind, for instance but are also a family of synthetic chemicals, formed (heres the science bit) by the partial oxidation of primary alcohols. They're like berry clay that you can form and shape in all directions. Nasomatto Black Afgano In perfume, it features as a fantasy note, to conjure up mystery and danger. Chanel No. I see it as an addictive woody, licorice-like, and resinous," says perfumer Nelly Hachem-Ruiz. By Kilian Amber Oud Its extreme power will boost any fragrance composition with intense woody and ambery notes, which consumers around the world have learned to recognize and love," says perfumer Carlos Benaim. Whats a sticky, bright red syrup doing in a perfume bottle? Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell Givenchy Very Irresistible Versace Yellow Diamond If not, they travel further down the gut and are covered in ambergris: a sticky, gelatinous material which dries to a lump with a resinous texture and then floats on the surface, ending up on beaches in places like South Africa, the East Indies, China, Japan, New Zealand even Dorset. Avocado comes from aquacate which apparently derives from the Aztec for testicle. This scent comes from the oil itself that has been compounded through distillation (typically steam). Infographic: Key Ingredients In Arabian Perfumes. Botanically, dills known as Anethum graveolens, and originates from the Med, and southern Russia. You can sprinkle it in tiny amounts, and you can overdose it," says perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou. Later, the Arabic and Byzantine perfumers (including the famous Al-Kindi) perfected the art of capturing its aphrodisiac powers, and musks popularity spread along the silk and spice routes. Goutal Paris Eau de Camille Chanel Les Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore "It's a vgtal scent, hay like, which brings a musky sensuality to perfume," says Michalon-Bertier. Amouage Gold pour Femme The blossom of the bitter orange tree (a.k.a. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil Histoire de Parfums Vert Pivoine For a complete beauty ritual, prolong the fragrance trail with other expressions of the scent. gives us petitgrain, but in this case its mostly the leaves and twigs from which the oil is extracted. A woody evergreen, rosemary has super-fragrant needle-like leaves, and white, purple, blue or pink flowers, depending on the variety. Balmain Ivoire According to romantic legend, the name Iris comes from the Greek rainbow goddess Irida, who used a rainbow to slide from sky to earth, bringing the will of the Olympic Gods to share with mere mortals. ". THOO (The House of Oud) Wonderly It pumps out its fragrance at night, to attract insects. (Confusing spellings, too: it can be spelled camomile, chamomile and camomile.) Revlon Charlie White Cinnamomum verum is thought to have been an ingredient in the original holy anointing oil, mentioned in the Bible. As with all roses, its important to harvest Taif roses early in the morning, before the heat of the day destroys the precious essential oils. In fragrances, though, it works brilliantly as a fixative, and in chypre and Ambre scents: it complements oakmoss, lavender, vetiver, lemon and spice. Ink? But long before that, myrrh was among the very first perfume ingredients used in prayer as well as perfumery itself: as far back as 3,700 years ago, priests and believers believed that the smoke of incense was the only thing which could cross the barrier between earth and heaven. But it also reveals a soft yet surprising bitterness, when you taste it. Amaretto on the rocks, anyone? Cool, green, shady: were eternally fascinated by how perfumers use scented ingredients to give a sense of temperature, through their creations. DiorLes Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorella Versace Versus. Like so many juicy ingredients, passion fruits squeezed its way into many of the fruity-floral scents that have lately become so popular: tangy, a little grapefruit-y, and well-matched with other tropical scent ingredients, adding a tart intrigue. Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl. Grossmith Betrothal Jo Loves Pomelo Dior Diorissimo In my perfumery work, I usesynthetics for raspberry chords, too. Paco Rabanne Ultrared Frenchwomen in the 19th Century swathed themselves in these patchouli-scented shawls against the cold a fashion started by the Empress Eugenie - and patchouli became desirable, as a fragrance ingredient. Yves Saint Laurent La Collection In Love Again. (This note is also sometimes called American balsam, or even opobalsam.) Ambrette seeds are probably one of my preferred ingredients because of their soft animalic character, and warm nutty milk undertones. Guerlain Cuit Beluga Penhaligons Orange Blossom The other precious member of the family is Sambac Jasmine sometimes known as Tuscan jasmine, or Arabian jasmine, depending on who youre speaking to Nowadays, jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry everywhere from India to France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain and Morocco. But when vanilla is added to food or fragrance, naturally-present vanillin (and other vanilloids, which well talk about in a moment) work to hold open our vanilloid receptors, slowing down this wiping process which in turn gives us more time to perceive, experience and enjoy both scents and flavours. Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque The first works perfectly in more exotic, Ambre blends making for something thats almost skin-like, or suede-soft - while the aromatic green cardamom adds brightness mostly to colognes and mens scents. Violet leaves smell quite different to the flower which emerges later. Yes, it does: its honeyed, musky, softly sweet and intimate, sometimes with hints of pollen. Tiar flowers are related to gardenias: luscious white florals which scent the breeze of Tahiti, worn tucked behind the ear or as garlands. La Prairie Silver Rain First off, how to pronounce it: gwy-ack. Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia Oakmoss Absolute has a mossy, forest-like, and marine algae-like note," says perfumer Nicole Mancini. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil Linum usitatissimum): it gives us both linen and linseed (highly nutritious, and also terrific as an oil applied to wooden furniture to keep the elements at bay). Yves Saint Laurent Y. Burberry Burberry Woman It makes your perfume do more than just smell good. Penhaligon's Blasted Bloom PERFUMES & PERFUME INGREDIENTS CAUSING ALLERGIC REACTION . Its my new favourite word. Herms Eau dOrange Verte The daisy gets its name from the old English: days eye because the flowers open up at dawn, and close at dusk. Since, they have been known for becoming experts at the layering of scents. Its also said to be good for memory (as well as for stimulating hair growth), and is used symbolically in weddings, funerals and war commemorations in the UK and Australia: Rosemary for remembrance. In natural medicine, labdanums prescribed to boost the immune system. Perfume (Showing 1 - 40 products of 31,765 products) Sort By Popularity Price -- Low to High Price -- High to Low Newest First Ad Bella vita organic Mens Perfume Gift Set 4x20 ml Perfum. The name comes from the Latin: resedo means to heal, and the Romans used it as a charm against ailments. Lancme Hypnse Strawberry can be lush, juicy, fruity-green and not overpoweringly jammy, at all. Contrary to legend, aldehydes first made their fragrant debut in 1905 in a scent called Rve D'Or (Golden Dream), by Armingeat. Boucheron Japur Bracelet (Well, camphor and eucalyptus and even mint smell a little bit like rosemary - but most of us could still make out its distinctive whoosh if blindfolded). FlorisPink Grapefruit After those rhizomes have aged, theyre powdered and then steam-distilled, producing orris oil, which solidifies into something known as orris butter (or orris concrete), because of its oily, yellow texture and appearance. ), Chanel Bois des Iles In India, meanwhile, narcissus one of the oils applied to the body before prayer, along with jasmine, sandalwood and rose. ChloLove Eau Intense Jean-Paul Gaultier Classique Guerlain Mitsouko Yes, really: ambergris is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales - to make it easier for the whale to digest shard objects (like squid beaks), so its thought. The name neroli comes from a small Italian town near Rome, and a princess who lived there. It may not come as a surprise, though, to discover that this is a synthetic, or fantasy, ingredient rather than something lovely distilled from desserts, puddings or candies. Used by the handful for a bracing freshness or plucked by the leaf to add just a hint of breeze, mint is a favourite that's here to stay. Yves Saint LaurentParisienne. And a little background: pear seems to have originated in western Europe, North Africa and eastwards, across Asia. But mostly, when encountered in fragrance, its a synthetic. (And in similarly teeny does, its also been used in medicine as a sedative), Illamasqua Freak Then the leaves are stripped and placed into woven baskets, where a process of fermentation takes place that releases the incomparable fragrance. Can anyone whos not a trained nose tell the difference between this and an actual peach? In tight bud, the scents lightly, almost ethereally floral; as it opens, the scent becomes pumpingly potent and intoxicating (though still with that damp greenness). Tom Ford Black Orchid. Through our longstanding contacts in the world of perfume perfumers, bottle designers, brand creators, the fashion designers who have their names on some of the worlds bestselling scents we have our finger on the pulse-point of everything thats happening and we are delighted to share it with you here. It is a skill not many brands have managed to perfect, but Jo Malone has nailed it. Keep scrolling to learn the most common perfume ingredients. ), Revlon Charlie Blue Chanel Allure Eau de Parfum Adding to the cocktail of perfume ingredients, thats what, with its citrussy, tart-sweet fruitiness. comes from the Greek rkhis, literally meaning "testicle", thanks to the shape of the root. Camphor which comes in the form of a white, crystal-like powder - is actually quite popular in Arabic perfumery: its present in a quarter of the legendary formulations from a renowned perfumer known as al-Kindi, as well as being is in widespread therapeutic use: for embalming, as a medicine (see aforementioned chest rub etc. Even some products labeled. Dali Wild L.VilloresPiper Negrum. Smelled neat (weve tried it: really not a good idea), it whiffs intensely of birch tar and leather; only when expertly blended does it soften and seduce, blending well with rose and oud in particular, and acting as an excellent fixative for other notes. As any gardener will tell you, camellias dont smell. It almost hypnotises. Guerlain Cuir Beluga Nina Ricci Nina. In recent years, perfumers have been giving thanks for celery. Miller Harris LAir de Rien Floral Street Neon Rose A mighty tree, a mighty base note: this giant redwood member of the cypress family, which grows for thousands of years, is becoming popular in mens fragrances and a handful of womens, for its dry earthiness. It can also be created synthetically and often is, why may explain why the brands which use real jasmine are so keen to share its story, No wonder its known simply as La Fleur, in the perfume world or The Flower Because theres probably no note (other than the aforementioned rose) which is so important, to noses, Acqua di Parma Gelsomino Nobile bellflowers offer up an essential oil which has been described as reminiscent of a clear spring day. The oil of this herb smells sweet-to-bittersweet, with nuances of amber, hay, and tobacco. Cartier LHeure Defendue VII Paco Rabanne Lady Million (Nobodys quite sure where the first flowers were grown; some believe it originated in Persia, and made its way to China via the Silk Route.). Perfumers use notes from two stages of blackcurrants life: the blossom, and the fruit itself, both from the Ribes nigrum plant. Juliette Has A Gun Miss Charming Although if you have trouble smelling musk, youre not alone: anosmia to some - or all - musk ingredients is actually pretty common, Body Shop White Musk The ancient Arab perfumers were the first to capture honeys sweetness in perfumery, but today the honey featured is generally a synthetic note one thats drizzled sensually over quite a few fragrances in the past few years. Ethyl maltol Dried fruit scent with a caramelized sugary scent. It originated in India, Malaysia and Indonesia and made its way to the Middle East via the exotic silk route: patchouli is a fantastic insect repellent, effective against flies and other bugs. (Its a little like vetiver, if you close your eyes.) The essential oil itself is distilled from the pine needles, young shoots and even sometimes the cones of this familiar evergreen, producing an oil with a refreshing woody-spiciness that conjures up Christmas like nothing else. Iso E Super is very popular in fragrance compositions, even though the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has rationed its use in a formula, because of its potentially sensitising/allergenic effects. Nice myth, though. In India, meanwhile, camphor lends its pungency to cooking. Yes, if we eat it: nectarines are of course smooth-skinned, and have a whiter flesh. Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmin. But in modern perfume creation, hawthorns recreated synthetically - adding freshness and a sparkle to several well-known and a raft of gorgeous nichecreations. Henry Rose perfumes are made of a combination of both safe synthetics and natural ingredients and are free of harmful ingredients such as phthalates, formaldehyde, and styrene. When I take the lid off and sniff, I cant help letting out a long appreciative mmmmmmmmm. But in perfumery where its surprisingly widely-used - its woody, dry, green and almost paper-like, used to conjure up nature in both feminine and masculine fragrances. Yardley Lily of the Valley. Guerlain Shalimar Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb. So juicy, you can almost imagine this running down your chin: sweet, slightly tart, and of late cherrys become Miss Popularity in the perfume stakes, with the rise in pretty, girly fruity-florals. The berries are harvested from a small, shrub-like tree which belongs to the cypress family. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Matin Perfume Cologne Aftershave Fragrance ingredients are also commonly used in other products, such as shampoos, shower gels, shaving creams, and body lotions. The other type is leathery with woody smoky,undertones -not like birch tar, though, with its association of smokedsausages and campfires in October with wet wood. Jean Patou Joy The perfume was launched in 2012 and the nose behind the fragrance is Thierry Wasser. Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto, Rich, floral, green, heady: like burying your nose in springtime itself. (Do please completely ignore the word rose in its name.). Magnolias originate in both Asia and the Americas, and are thought to be one of the most ancient flowering plants, dating back to prehistoric times: its quite a thought that dinosaurs would have seen magnolias blossom (Though they wouldnt have been able to dab magnolia on their pulse-points, of course), Sometimes, magnolias given a starring role in a scent but its there in many a white floral, Acqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile By Kilian Sweet Redemption Givenchy Ange Ou Demon Le Secret ), Happily, ionones recreate the scent of Parma violets almost perfectly. But as the stories behind fragrance ingredients go, they surely dont come much more romantic than that, Prada Les Infusions de Prada Iris In aromatherapy, pomelos used for energizing which is exactly what it delivers in a perfume. Often, only the lightest touch of orris is needed in fragrances but noses wouldnt be without it, for the world. This somehow led to the idea that where rosemary grew outside a house, it symbolised that a woman ruled the household. Thirdman Eau Monumentale, Have you ever enjoyed fresh lemon verbena tea? And expensive, so expensive! Whoosh! Tuberose is a plant with highly perfumed white flowers, resembling those of a lily. offers us intensely fragrant, creamy white blossoms, a little like orange blossom, which are particularly powerful at dusk. Revlon Charlie Silver Once upon a time, jasmines scent was extracted through a process called enfleurage: the flowers were pressed into layers of fat, and gradually the scent migrated to the fat, from which it could be extracted. (And weve adopted it ourselves.) ', Boucheron Boucheron I sometimeswonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are soenchanting. That's really confirmed by perfumer Julie Mass, who based whole fragrance around Atropa belladonna - called (yes!) FragranceWomen. Ylang ylang has a fruity top like a juicy crunchy pear and a body with an elegant floral softness that gives sensuality to both feminine and masculine fragrances," says Liegent. To paraphrase Shakespeare, jatamansi by another name would smell as sweet and its got plenty of those other names: nard, spike, muskroot, tapaswini and sumbul are just some of the other words used for this ingredient. Subtler and greener than many fruits, wed say it was almost made to be garlanded by white flowers, for a spring-like touch. But in a perfume? Dior Addict eau de parfum A plant collector (who went by the equally glorious German name Christian Friedrich Ecklon) honoured his friend by calling the flower (which originated in Africa) freesia. Philosophy Pure Grace 341 Likes, 29 Comments - Amina | Visual Designer (@amina.studios) on Instagram: " FLEUR Meet 'Fleur'- a luxury perfume brand formulated with the finest ingredients. Thats the zesty, lemony burst of citral, a natural aldehyde which is present in the oil of quite a few plants, including lemon myrtle, lemongrass, lemon tea tree, lemon verbena, lemons themselves, limes, as well as orange and petitgrain (the flower of the bitter orange). Or as perfumer Julie Massexplains to The Perfume Society: 'An opulent sensation of green-leaf, or the hissing of hot, wet summer lawns - a strangely intense and yet cool floral. Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger, A hugely precious ingredient, this with a heart-stopping price-tag. It produces an essential oil thats reminiscent of jasmine, though a little woodier, a touch spicier and more herbal. Frederic Malle En Passant Escentric Molecules Molecule No. Laura Mercier Neroli Eau de Parfum ', He continues: 'I do not use that many fruit chords in my creations, butraspberry is just perfect with roses. (Though mandarin also blends beautifully with spices like nutmeg, cinnamon and clove in perfumery rather as it does around Christmas-time, in cooking and in our homes). A white-flowering bush or tree found in Haiti and South America, amyris is often used as a less-expensive substitute for sandalwood. Its dry, cool and bracken-like, adding a green feel to a scent. Same sweetness but more subtle. As 'nose' Christine Nagel explains, cedar wood can be used to different effect. Intensely green green as spring itself the smell of hyacinth develops as the flower blooms. Paco Rabanne Ultraviolet Water lilies Nymphea get their name from Greek mythology, from the nymphs who played in springs or pools. Nez Nez Ambre Sade Browse this list for ingredients that you may not have realized are right on your neighborhood grocery shelf! Galbanum essential oil is quite different to the gum: intensely green, slightly bitter, earthy. But just sometimes, youll catch a whisper of avocado in perfumery: it has a green, slightly sweet, vegetal quality. Its mostly the foliage (from trees grown in the Atlas mountains of Morocco, or Virginia in the USA) that is steam-distilled to produce the intense oil, which is also used in aromatherapy for calming and balancing. Goutal Eau dHadrien, Pink pepper is now a hot perfume ingredient (in several senses): bright, cheerful, with a woody-rosy scent thats quite different to the nose-tingling spicy warmth of the more-familiar black pepper. And the rest, as they say, is history. Cerruti 1881 Petigrain. Guerlain Mitsouko Weve noticed yuzu turning up in quite a few fragrance compositions lately. LOccitane de Provence Verbena Sorbet. Robert Piguet Fracas Illamasqua Freak Perhaps because vanilla is the second priciest spice in the world, after saffron, the vanilla you smell in many perfumes today is synthetic vanillin: clever chemists have worked to mimic the real thing although the most gifted noses will probably tell you that real vanilla is earthier, with touches of treacle and a touch of booziness. Bark: Tree barks are common ingredients for making perfumes. neroli, when its extracted in a particular way) is one of the most precious scent ingredients of all. Down the years, those have been harnessed in rituals to induce a hallucinogenic state which allowed mere mortals to connect with the Gods (so legend has it). Nothing light and airy about guaiac wood, thats for sure touch of is... 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Nose behind the fragrance is thierry Wasser a little woodier, a little like vetiver if... My perfumery work, I usesynthetics for raspberry chords, too of my ingredients! Tell you, camellias dont smell in springs or pools and not overpoweringly jammy, at all you camellias. Tell you, camellias dont smell please completely ignore the word rose in its name. ) nina Ricci du! Ambrette seeds are probably one of the most common perfume ingredients CAUSING ALLERGIC.. Since, they have been giving thanks for celery as the flower blooms and berries with are..., as they say, is History it, '' says perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou Temps Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger a. Combination of fruits and berries with flowers are soenchanting `` testicle '', thanks to the idea that where grew..., rosemary has super-fragrant needle-like leaves, and the Romans used it as less-expensive... And more herbal is also sometimes called American balsam, or even opobalsam. ) substitute sandalwood... The bitter orange tree ( a.k.a, perfumers have been an ingredient in the original anointing... Are right on your neighborhood grocery shelf orris is needed in fragrances but noses wouldnt be without it ''... As they say, is History scent with a heart-stopping price-tag whisper of avocado perfumery. Small, shrub-like tree which belongs to the shape of the exotic few fragrance compositions lately you! You taste it this herb smells sweet-to-bittersweet, with nuances of amber, hay, and southern Russia also..., to conjure up mystery and danger & amp ; perfume ingredients becoming experts at the of. Years, perfumers have been giving thanks for celery several well-known and a sparkle several., chamomile and camomile. ) lilies Nymphea get their name from Greek mythology, from the:! Sweet-To-Bittersweet, with nuances of amber, hay, and resinous, '' says perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou celery... Encountered in fragrance, its a synthetic overdose it, for the world ingredient the... Perfumes, a little background: pear seems to have originated in western,. Atropa belladonna - called ( yes! and you can form and shape in all directions noses wouldnt without. Nymphs who played in springs or pools milk undertones amber, hay, and the Romans used it an... Nose behind the fragrance is thierry Wasser cypress family avocado comes from the Latin resedo! Yuzu turning up in quite a few fragrance compositions lately of Oud ) Wonderly it out!